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ILLUSTRATED FASHION GLOSSARY
The world of wedding gowns has a language of its own, and the more you understand, the easier it
will be to find your dream dress.  Here's a glossary of styles and fabrics so you know what to ask for
when you get to the store.
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DRESS SILHOUETTES

Ballgown
A natural, basque or dropped waistline and very full skirt.









Princess
Multiple, fitted, vertical panels extending in an A-line
from the bust or shoulders to the hem, with no defined waistline.









Empire
A high waist that starts just beneath a fitted bodice with a slim or A-line skirt.










Sheath
A narrow long-line form-fitting style, also referred to as a column gown.









Mermaid
A body-hugging style with a skirt that flares at or just below the knee.










NECKLINES

Bateau or Boat
Follows a straight line from shoulder to shoulder, covering the collarbone; offers a subtle variation
on the Sabrina neckline.










Scoop
A rounded, low neckline, dipping from the shoulders to just above the bustline.










Halter
Fastens at the back of the neck, leaving the shoulders and back bare.










Square
A half-square or rectangular neckline.










Jewel
A rounded neckline that encircles the base of the neck.










Strapless
Strapless is exactly that: no straps or sleeves.  A strapless neckline is most often shown as a
straight line above the bust; designers also sometimes show a sweetheart strapless, with curved
lines above the bust.










Portrait
Wraps around the tips of the shoulders to "frame" the face.










Sweetheart
Begins two inches inside the shoulder-line and dips to a heart shape at the bustline.










Queen Anne
High-standing collar at the back of the neck that curves down to a sweetheart front.










Wedding Band Collar
A high-necked, fitted, standing collar.










Sabrina
Extends from shoulder to shoulder, curving slightly down below the collarbone.











SLEEVES

Balloon
Very large poufed sleeve extending from the shoulder to as far as the wrist.










Gothic
Extra-long, sheer sleeves, typically of chiffon, that flow from the shoulders to well below the hands;
the sleeves are split at the elbow for ease of movement.










Bell
Narrow at the top, the sleeve flares in a bell shape at its bottom edge.










Juliet
A long sleeve with a poufed top and fitted lower arm.










Bishop
Softly gathered at the shoulders and full to the elbow, then fitted all the way down to the cuffs.










Leg-Of-Mutton
Full and rounded from the shoulder to just above the elbow, tapering to a more fitted sleeve from
the forearm to the wrist.










Cap
Very short, fitted sleeve that just covers the shoulder.










Poet
A fitted sleeve that is narrow from the shoulder to the elbow and then flares out.










Illusion
Made of sheer, very fine net, often beaded, embroidered or appliqued with lace.










Pouf
A short, full, gathered sleeve; can be worn on or off the shoulder.










Emma
Similar to a cap, but shirred and slightly poufed










Tulip
A set-in sleeve with overlapping fabric that curves into a petal-like shape.










Fitted Point
A long sleeve with little or no fullness that falls to a point over the top of the hand










Gauntlet
Detachable lace or fabric that covers the forearm and wrist.











WAISTLINES

Asymmetrical
Begins at the natural waistline and angles down to one side.










Hi-Lo
A rounded, inverted waistline, the highest point of which rests at the center of the waist, then curves
down to the sides.










Basque
A continuation of the bodice that falls below the natural waistline with pointed or rounded detail.










Inverted Basque
An inverted-V waistline, the point of which rests at the center of the waist, with straight lines
extending diagonally from the center to the sides.










Dropped
Falls below the natural waistline; may have points or rounded detail.










Natural
A straight line that sits at your natural waist, or the smallest part of your waist just above your hips.  
A natural waistline above an A-line skirt is a flattering look for many body types.










Empire
Begins just below the bustline.











SKIRT DETAILS

Bustle
A gathering of fabric (may include the train) at the back waistline of the gown.










Peplum
Short skirt addition sewn onto the bodice of a dress or jacket.










Flounce
A wide piece of fabric or lace, gathered and attached at the hem.










Tulip
Overlapping skirt panels that resemble petals of a tulip (also known as a petal skirt).











Pannier
Gathered fabric draped over the hips.










Tiered
Layered panels of fabric that fall from the waist to the hem in varying lengths.













BODICE DETAILS



Corset
A period-style bodice that typically features boning sewn in for support and structure.  Corsets are
sometimes lace-up at the back or sides and are a good option for a bride seeking a "waist-cinching"
effect.









Wrap
Rather than a smooth front, a wrapped bodice features fabric that wraps around the body from the
back or sides and is buttoned or tied in front.  While some wraps do secure the bodice in back, most
are purely for decoration.










Shirring or Ruching
Fabric is tightly gathered into two or more parallel rows, resulting in a textural effect.  Shirring is
typically vertical, while ruching is horizontal.










Pleated
Parallel folds of fabric that have been pressed and either stitched or steamed into place.  Pleats are
a good option for brides seeking to emphasize their upper body, but may not be an ideal choice for
full-figured brides.


HEADPIECES

Hairpins/Hair Sticks
Jeweled bobby-pin-style ornaments that can be inserted in the hair, singly or in groups (great with
an updo).


Pillbox
A round, structured, brimless hat worn on the top of the head.










Half Hat
A small hat covering half or less of the crown.










Profile
A floral comb worn asymmetrically on one side of the head and adorned with lace, pearls or crystals.










Halo
A fabric-and-wire band that circles the forehead (may be decorated with pearls, sequins or flowers).










Snood
Netting (may be decorated with pearls, sequins or flowers) that covers the hair (usually in a
chignon), worn at the nape of the neck.










Juliet Cap
A small cap that hugs the back of the head.










Tiara
Ornamental crown of pearls, crystals, rhinestones or lace worn on top of the head.










Mantilla
Lace-trimmed veiling that frames the face.  Can be worn on its own, or placed over or under a tiara.










Wreath
A circle of flowers that sits above the crown of the head or lower, encircling the forehead.










Picture Hat
A wide-brimmed hat, usually decorated with lace, pearls or sequins.











VEILS

Ballet or Waltz Length
Falls to the ankles.










Chapel Length
Falls 2 1/2 yards from the headpiece.












Birdcage
Stiff, wide-mesh veil pinned to the crown of the head, covering the face and ears to just below the
chin.












Fingertip Length
Touches the fingertips when the arms are held straight at the sides.












Blusher
A short, single veil worn over a longer veil, this covers the bride's face as she enters the ceremony,
and is pushed back afterward.











Fly-Away
Multiple layers that brush the shoulders, usually worn with an informal dress.











Cascade
Several layers of veiling in varying lengths.  After the ceremony, the longer layers can be removed,
leaving a short, full veil.












Pouf
Short, gathered veiling attached to a headpiece, usually worn with an informal dress.











Cathedral Length
Falls 3 1/2 yards from the headpiece, usually worn with a cathedral train.











Wreath
A circle of flowers that sits above the crown of the head or lower, encircling the forehead.










LACE

Alencon
A delicate floral or leaf design on a fine-net background, outlined with heavy threads to define the
pattern and add more dimension.










Lyon
An intricate, ornamental design delicately stitched onto a net background; the pattern is outlined in
silk or cotton.










Battenberg
A heavy lace made with patterns of linen braid and tape connected with decorative linen stitching.










Point D'espirit
Oval dots woven in a pattern on net fabric.










Chantilly
A web-like floral pattern outlined with silk threads on a lace background; soft to the touch.











Schiffli
Intricate floral pattern (similar to Alencon lace but lighter) embroidered directly onto the gown.











Guipure
A heavy lace designed to show large patterns over a coarse-mesh background.










Venise
Heavy floral or leaf pattern in needlepoint, with motifs connected in lines.











DRESS LENGTHS


Street
Hemline falls to just cover the knee.

Ballerina
Hemline falls to just above the ankles.

Intermission or Hi-Lo
Hemline falls to the mid-calf in front, floor-length in back.

Floor
Hemline falls 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches from the floor.

Tea
Hemline falls to the lower part of the calf.


TRAINS

Sweep
A short train that barely sweeps the floor.

Extended or Royal Cathedral
Extends 3 yards from the back of the waist.

Court
Extends 1 yard from the back of the waist.

Obi Sash
A short train, tied in a flat butterfly bow at the waist, that barely sweeps the floor.

Chapel
Extends 1 1/3 yards from the back of the waist.

Watteau
A train attached to the shoulders of the gown.

Cathedral
Extends 2 1/2 yards from the back of the waist.


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HOW TO FLATTER YOUR FIGURE
Finding the perfect gown style is easy when you know what looks best on your body.  Whether
you're pear-shaped or petite, top-heavy or tall, wearing the right cut for your figure can highlight
your best features and downplay those you're concerned about.
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The Triangle (small on top, heavier on the bottom)  The key here is to balance your proportions.  
Broaden and emphasize your top half with full-sleeve treatments, padded shoulders or poufed
sleeves that extend your shoulder line, and a textured bodice accented with lace overlays, appliques
and beadwork.  Elongated bodices and skirts with controlled fullness will emphasize your waist and
de-emphasize your hip area.  Avoid set-in sleeves and narrow shoulders, skirts with side panels or
excess fullness, and body-hugging sheaths.









The Inverted Triangle (fuller on top, narrow hips)  In order to de-emphasize your shoulder area and
give more width to your lower body, look for gowns with minimal shoulder details, simple sleeves,
moderate padding, and natural shoulder lines.  Simple bodices with minimal accents will draw less
attention to your top.  For better overall proportion, wear a full skirt or a style with skirt details such
as peplums, bustles, sashes and bows.  Avoid gowns with full sleeves, slim, straight skirts, empire
waistlines and plunging necklines.










The Rectangle (nearly equal bust and hips, minimal waist definition)  To create the illusion of curves,
look for full, voluminous skirts and jewel or bateau necklines or wide collars.  Horizontal detailing will
draw the eye across the torso and combat vertical body lines, and oversized shoulders and sleeves
will add width to your top and shape to your overall appearance.  Avoid slim silhouettes or gowns in
soft, clingy fabrics, which will only make you appear thin and narrow.










The Hourglass (small waist, full hips and bust)  To maximize your curves and maintain balance, look
for gowns with simple, classic lines like sheaths and mermaid styles-too much detailing can make
you look heavier than you really are.  Show off your shoulders with off-the-shoulder sleeves, V-
necklines and strapless dresses.  Avoid gowns with very full or ruffled skirts, poufed sleeves, highly
detailed bodices and high necklines that cover the shoulder area and minimize the bust.









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CAMOUFLAGING CONCERNS
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Petite figures are lengthened in controlled-but-full skirts with minimal detail.  Basque waistlines,
simple sleeves, modestly detailed shoulders, vertical pleating and A-line or princess silhouettes
elongate the torso and add height.  For slim petites, the sheath or mermaid style is ideal.  Full
figures look best in fitted, V-neck bodices and dropped-V, or basque, waistlines.  Full skirts
camouflage hips and thighs, while styling details around the neckline, such as beading on a sheer
yoke, draw the eye upward.  Long or three-quarter sleeves slenderize arms; avoid strapless or
sleeveless gowns, which only emphasize upper-arm fullness.  Opt for dresses where the fabric
drapes gracefully to the floor instead of ones that are form-fitting.  Disguise a thick waist with an
empire waistline.  Princess-style dresses elongate a short waist and lengthen the torso.  Long waists
look shorter when the waistline is cut above the torso, as on a basque-waist or empire-style gown.
To slim heavy hips, try an A-line skirt or a full-but-controlled skirt without bows, flounces or ruffles.  A
full bust is flattered in an off-the-shoulder, portrait, scoop or V-neckline with minimal detailing.  Small
busts look larger when they are accentuated with intricate details, such as beadwork, sequins and
on-the-shoulder necklines.


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MEASURING TIPS
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Customarily your bridal gown size will have not much in common with your regular dress size.  We
don't know how or when this practice started, but bridal gowns generally run smaller by one or two
sizes.  For this reason, it is imperative that you review each designer's size chart and choose the
size that fits your largest measurement.   Before you place your order, have your measurements
taken and compare them to the size chart from the manufacturer. If your measurements fall right on
the edge of two sizes, order the larger size.  Therefore, if your bust equals a size 14, your waist a
size 12 and your hips a 12, you would order the size 14 gown.  Remember, it is easier to take a
dress in than it is to let it out or to try to lose that last inch!

Now, you may be wondering about how to have your measurements taken.  We recommend you
have the professional seamstress who will alter your gown take your measurements.  DO NOT
ATTEMPT TO TAKE YOUR OWN MEASUREMENTS - THEY WILL BE WRONG!  You can also have
someone else take them if you follow the instructions listed below.  When you measure, wear shoes
with a heel height similar to what you plan to wear on your wedding day, wear a similar bra or bustier
and, if you have one laying around, wear a similar petticoat.  Wearing all of these will help ensure
your measurements are correct.  If you do not have all of the accessories, just make sure add a
couple of inches to your measurements to accommodate them.

The designer's size charts do not generally have all of these measurements, but it is a good idea to
take them all and familiarize yourself with them:




Bust
Take the tape around your back and bring it across the fullest part of the breast. Your arms should
be relaxed, down at your sides.

Waist
This is the smallest part of your waist. Typically, it is located an inch or so above your belly button.

Hips
Take the tape around the widest part of your hips, across the hip bone.

Hollow to Hem
Start the tape at the hollow (base of your neck) and measure down to where you want the hem. If
your skirt will be full, be sure to measure out at an angle to allow for the fullness. Also, be sure you’
re wearing the same height heel you'll wear on your wedding day.

Inside Sleeve
Start the tape in your armpit and measure your straight arm to the wrist.

Arm Width
Relax your arm and measure around the largest part of the upper arm.

Shoulder to Shoulder
This is the measurement from shoulder blade to shoulder blade.

Nape to Waist
Measure from the base of the neck in the back to the natural waist.



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GOWN Q&A
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Q: I know I'll lose weight before my wedding.  Should I order my gown in a smaller size?
A: Tempting, but ultimately not a good idea.  With all the tension that goes along with planning a
wedding, the added pressure to lose weight can be almost unbearable.  Since little can be done to
make a smaller gown larger if you don't meet your weight goal, play it safe and order the gown in
your current size.  Then, if you do take the weight off, you can always have your gown adjusted
during the fitting process.

Q: Recently, a bridal consultant told me a chiffon gown would be perfect for my winter wedding, but
I'd always thought chiffon was only for summer weddings.  Who's right?
A: Traditionally, fabrics like chiffon, organza and tulle were considered summer wedding gown
materials only.  But the rules have changed.  These days, brides wear a variety of fabrics and styles
year-round.  Virtually all wedding-gown fabrics and styles are now considered seasonless.  Today,
the single most important factor you should consider when choosing your gown's material is that you
like it!

Q: I've heard it's very important to wear the right undergarments with my wedding gown.  If this is
true, where should I buy my bridal lingerie?
A: The right undergarments are critical to making your gown lay right (and they can conceal figure
flaws, making your body appear curvier or better toned).  Some bridal salons sell their own
assortment of lingerie, giving you a chance to try on different styles and sizes to see which ones
work best with your dress.  If your bridal salon doesn't carry lingerie, your salesperson should be
able to direct you to a specialty store that does.  You can also call the lingerie department of your
favorite store to set up an appointment with a fitter.
Unlike your day-to-day lingerie, some of your wedding-day undergarments may need to be custom-
fitted, so it's a good idea to shop for lingerie early in the process, and it's essential to bring all bridal
undergarments to your final fitting.

Q: Are there certain times when it's more appropriate to wear a white gown than ivory, or vice
versa?  What about pastel gowns?
A: While white is considered the most traditional color for a wedding gown, ivory has long been
accepted as an appropriate choice for even very formal weddings.  Gowns in pastel tones, ranging
from pink to peach to ice blue, are also gaining in popularity.  What's most important is not your
dress's color but that its style matches the formality of your wedding.

Q: Is there any rule about who pays for the bride's gown?
A: There is no hard-and-fast rule about who assumes responsibility for this cost, although
traditionally the bride's family did.  These days, a bride may pay for the gown herself, she and her
fiance might share the cost or she might split the expense with her parents.





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FITTING COUNTDOWN
Now that you've finally found your dream dress, you'll spend the next several months having it
customized to fit.  Through alterations, your wedding gown will soon become a one-of-a-kind
treasure.  Follow this timetable to ensure that the entire shopping and buying process runs smoothly.
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6 TO 9 MONTHS

Choose a dress based on the formality of your wedding, the season and the time of day it will take
place.
Order your dress at least six months before your wedding.
Be prepared to make a down payment of 50% (preferably on your credit card, because this gives
you more control over payment if there's a breach of contract).
Ask about special policies, extra alteration fees, cancellation rules, free services and the date your
balance is due.
Confirm the delivery date of your dress.
Ask about the fittings policy: how many you'll need to attend, what to bring, how long each will last.

3 TO 6 MONTHS

Your dress should arrive three to four months after the order is placed.  Attend your first fitting.
Bring an appropriate bra and heels similar in height to the ones you'll wear with your dress, and
style your hair similar to the way you'll wear it at your wedding.  Alert the fitter to any discomfort so
she can make alterations.
Order your headpiece.
Order your wedding shoes.

1 MONTH

Attend a second fitting, when final alterations will usually be made.  Bring your bridal shoes so the
hem can be adjusted, as well as your headpiece so any changes can be made.
If you plan to hire the fitter to help you get dressed and bustle your train on your wedding day, now
is a good time to book her (most fitters will provide this service for a small additional charge).

2 WEEKS

Attend a final fitting.  Your mother or maid of honor should be present to learn how to bustle your
dress and secure your headpiece if you won't be hiring someone to help.

1 WEEK

Pick up your dress as close to your wedding day as possible to ensure freshness and prevent it
from wrinkling.
Once home, suspend your dress from a rod (do not lean it against any walls or doors) while it's still
in its bag.
Unzip the bag slightly to prevent mustiness.
On your wedding day, remove your dress from its bag and lay it on a clean sheet of cotton or plastic
until you are ready to get dressed.



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COORDINATING YOUR WEDDING PARTY
From patterns to colors to headpieces to accessories, you'll want to find a wedding-party look that
complements your own.  For bridesmaids, you might choose a dress that is similar in cut or style to
your own.  For groomsmen, pick formalwear similar in style to the groom's but with different accents
(the groom should stand out).  Of course, your selections will be based on the formality, time and
location of your wedding.  Use these guidelines to make your decision easier, and record important
information on the worksheet that follows.
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DAYTIME WEDDINGS

Ultra-formal
Bridesmaids - Long dresses and shoes to match.  Gloves and jeweled combs or other hair
accessories are optional.
Groomsmen - (Traditional) A cutaway suit with striped trousers and a wing-collar shirt with vest and
tie or cravat.  (Contemporary) A long or short contoured tuxedo with formal trousers and a wing-
collar shirt.

Formal
Bridesmaids - Long or short dresses and shoes to match.  Gloves and jeweled combs or other hair
accessories are optional.
Groomsmen - (Traditional) A stroller, waistcoat, striped trousers, white shirt and striped tie.  
(Contemporary) A formal tuxedo, dress shirt, bow or four-in-hand tie, and vest or cummerbund.

Semi-formal
Bridesmaids - Long or short dresses and shoes to match.  Gloves and jeweled combs or other hair
accessories are optional.
Groomsmen - (Traditional) A suit with a white, colored or striped shirt and four-in-hand tie.  
(Contemporary) Dinner jacket or formal suit, dress shirt, bow or four-in-hand tie, and vest or
cummerbund.

Informal
Bridesmaids - Maid of honor is dressed in a short dress or suit, similar in style to the bride's.
Groomsmen - (Traditional) A suit with a white, colored or striped shirt and four-in-hand tie.  
(Contemporary) Dinner jacket or formal suit, dress shirt, bow or four-in-hand tie, and vest.




EVENING WEDDINGS

Ultra-formal
Bridesmaids - Long dresses and shoes to match.  Gloves and jeweled combs or other hair
accessories are optional.
Groomsmen - (Traditional) Full-dress tailcoat, matching trousers, white waistcoat, white bow tie and
a wing-collar shirt.  (Contemporary) A long or short contoured tuxedo with formal trousers and wing-
collar shirt.

Formal
Bridesmaids - Long or tea-length dresses and shoes to match.  Gloves and jeweled combs or other
hair accessories are optional.
Groomsmen - (Traditional) A stroller, waistcoat, striped trousers, white shirt and striped tie.  
(Contemporary) A formal tuxedo, dress shirt, bow or four-in-hand tie, and vest or cummerbund.

Semi-formal
Bridesmaids - Floor, tea-length or shorter dresses and shoes to match.  Gloves and jeweled combs
or other hair accessories are optional.
Groomsmen - (Traditional) White or colored suit, striped shirt and four-in-hand tie.  (Contemporary)
Dinner jacket or formal suit, dress shirt, bow or four-in-hand tie, and vest or cummerbund.

Informal
Bridesmaids - Maid of honor is dressed in a short dress or suit, similar in style to the bride's.
Groomsmen - (Traditional) A suit with a white, colored or striped shirt, and four-in-hand tie.  
(Contemporary) Dinner jacket or formal suit, dress shirt, bow or four-in-hand tie, and vest or
cummerbund.





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THE BIG DAY
Finally, the day you've waiting for has arrived!  Your plans are set, everything is in place, and all you
have to do is get to the ceremony site on time.  Here's a timetable for transforming yourself into a
beautiful bride.
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Pack a beauty emergency kit beforehand for all those unexpected incidents that are bound to occur.
Hint: Include safety pins, needles, thread to match your gown, scissor, Instant Krazy Glue, nail
polish, bobby pins, hairspray, deodorant, tissues, pantyhose and makeup.  Give the kit to your maid
of honor or your mother to hold for you.

Style your hair or set your hairdresser appointment no later than four hours before the ceremony.
Hint: Ask your hairdresser if she will come to your house so you won't lose time traveling.

Paint your nails no later than four hours before the ceremony.
Hint: Paint the first coat the night before so you only need to wait for one coat to dry, or get a
manicure the day before.

Allow a half hour to apply your makeup before dressing.
Hint: Wash your hands before touching your dress.

Begin to put on your dress 1 1/2 hours before the ceremony (two hours before if you're having
photographs taken first).
Hint: The best tactic for putting on your gown is to position the petticoat under your dress, then step
into both.

After you are dressed, put on your accessories (all at the same time so nothing is forgotten).
Hint: Get everything together the night before to save time.

Secure your headpiece once you are fully dressed.
Hint: Give your hair a final spritz of hairspray after the headpiece is in place.

When you hear the processional start, take a deep breath before you begin walking down the aisle.
Hint: Counting to the beat as you take your first step will keep your nerves in check and your steps
in order.

Once at the reception, ask someone to assist you in bustling you gown.
Hint: Assign a person to help you ahead of time, and have her attend your final fitting to learn how to
bustle it properly.  Once bustled, your dress should be at least one inch from the ground, enabling
you to walk and dance freely.

Relax and enjoy yourself for the rest of the day-it is a day you will never forget!




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HOW TO PRESERVE YOUR GOWN
You should have your gown properly preserved as soon as possible after the big day has passed.  
Then, years from now, you'll be able to take it out without fear of discovering stains or fade spots-
and possibly pass it on to your daughter for her wedding.  To ensure that your dress stays as crisp
and clean as the day you wore it down the aisle, follow these guidelines.
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1. Have your gown professionally cleaned.  Even if your dress looks perfectly spotless after the
wedding, it's important to have it professionally cleaned, since invisible substances like perspiration
or oil could turn into stains later on.  Look for a professional who specializes in wedding gowns.  
Make sure he cleans the gown using stain pretreatments, fresh dry-cleaning fluid and a mesh bag
for protection.  The gown should also be hand-pressed afterward.

Most bridal fabrics can be safely dry-cleaned, but some will need to be professionally hand-washed.  
When you bring your gown to the cleaner, be sure to point out any visible spots to him and identify
what caused them, if you can.  Examine the hem and train of your dress for spots first, since they're
bound to be the most soiled parts, and be sure to mend any tears and reinforce loose attachments
beforehand.

2. Store your gown properly.  Keep your gown in a cool, dry area, such as under your bed or at the
top of your linen closet (the temperature changes are too extreme to store it in an attic or
basement), to protect it from light, dust and insects that might damage the fabric.  If you have your
gown cleaned, preserved, and boxed professionally, simply store the box away.

If you're packing the gown yourself, first remove the plastic cleaner's bag, then line the container
you will use with a fresh, white bedsheet to keep the gown from touching the sides of the container
directly.  Remove fabric-covered metal buttons, metal fasteners, pins, and sponge or foam shoulder
pads ahead of time, and store them separately, since they deteriorate with time.  Fold the gown as
little as possible, rounding out poufed sleeves and other shaped areas with crumpled up, acid-free
tissue paper, and lay tissue in the gown's folds to keep them from setting.  Finally, cover the dress
with another white sheet, pack it in a white-cloth garment bag, and store.

3. Check up on your gown.  To make sure there's no discoloration, mildew or pest infestation, peek
at your gown a couple times a year.  If you do find a problem, contact your dry cleaner or bridal
salon for advice.
1.  What are your priorities?  With many thousands of new bridal gown designs produced each year, you have tons of
options available to you.  By establishing guidelines beforehand, you can greatly reduce the chance that your shopping
experiences will be overwhelming.  For some brides, price is the most important factor in determining which dress to
buy.  For others, looks are the key to clinching a sale.  Decide ahead of time what is important to you.  

2. What kind of wedding do you envision having?  Traditional?  Contemporary?  The gown style you choose will depend
on the formality and style of the wedding itself, so it's important to know this in advance.  Generally, the more formal the
wedding, the more formal the gown should be.  But, if your wedding is semiformal and you still want to wear a formal
gown, feel free.  Remember, at your wedding you'll be the belle of the ball, so it's okay to stand out!

3. What's your wedding date?  You need to know this, because some fabrics and styles are seasonally appropriate
(although today many are considered year-round) and because your wedding date will also tell you how much time you
have to spend shopping, ordering and customizing your gown.  Many custom-ordered gowns require three to six months
for delivery, and custom-fitting may take another month or two.  Even if you buy a gown off the rack, it will take some
time to have it altered, so keep your timetable in mind when you're shopping around.  And, if you're submitting a portrait
to your local newspaper along with your wedding announcement, your gown will need to be ready even earlier, since
most newspapers ask for photos four to six weeks in advance.

4. How much can you spend?  Just as you've set a budget for your entire wedding, you'll want to establish a budget for
your wedding attire right from the start.  Use this worksheet to work out an estimate for each expense you'll incur in your
bridal attire.  Knowing what you can spend will prevent time wasted looking at dresses out of your price range, and it
can help you determine the sort of stores you'll visit.  These days, the average retail wedding gown costs about $700,
while many of the premium and designer gowns start around $1,500.  Generally, veils and headpieces can start at
about $125, and bridal shoes can cost anywhere from $20 to $300.  Add another $70 to $100 for lingerie and $110 for
jewelry, and you can plan to spend at least $1,125 on your bridal attire.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN, start by asking yourself these important questions. . .
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